Men wearing suits. Revolutionary, right? And yet, a return to sartorial elegance and classic clothing was the main message of the fall season and a welcome change after a long year of domination of casual loungewear. Many will be grateful to hear, however, that comfort and coziness weren’t totally forgotten, as designers made alternations for the time, including boxer silhouettes and looser pants.
With ease in mind, Alessandro Sartori has developed a fall collection for Ermenegildo Zegna that marries incredible evening dress techniques with comfort. Monochrome deconstructed suits, loose coats and updated leisure sets, all in innovative cashmere jersey, were the perfect compromise to re-enter the world.
As for vintage influences, traditional examples included a ’70s white suit with a generous lapel over an Ami blazer with matching Umit Benan flare pants that read as a subtle homage to’ Saturday Night Fever ‘. The black leather trench coat with the golden Fendi logo fasteners and powerful shoulders was all the rage of the 80s. On the other end of the vintage spectrum was Celine and her medieval-inspired French Renaissance show, with long black capes and white ruffled high-necked shirts. The shrunken striped costumes and Gothic jewelry kept the medieval trend anchored in the present.
It is clear that Hedi Slimane wanted his men Celine to be noticed, but he was not alone in this post-pandemic liberation movement. Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton took familiar silhouettes like suits and coats and oversized them to the extreme. A traditional topcoat has become a head turner lying on the ground. “I wanted to make clothes that were normal, but kind of amplify them, so that they became handcrafted, or runways or editorials,” Abloh said of her fall collection.
The historically classic elegance in men’s clothing was in part nurtured by military clothing and its extremely strict rules of tailoring. Kim Jones, always a fan of uniforms, presented a fall collection for Dior full of glamorous admiral coats, dressier utilitarian references and formal military costumes. “It’s dressing because of the backlash against the times we live in,” Jones said, summing up the new reality.